Anns Tweed (1)

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Tweed

Harvest 12 cones of 2 ply wool and feed them into a homemade warping mill to make the warp. The circumference of the drum is 1.6 meters, thus count the number of rotations to find the requisite length. The 12 ends are preserved in order, and after turning, a cross is introduced to separate them, making the tying-in process easier.

The next round of warp ends is then shifted forward by about 1cm. This is repeated 58 times, yielding 696 ends (58 x 12) - at 18 ends per inch, the finished cloth will be 38.6" or 98cm wide. The completed warp is then transferred to the loom's warp beam. This is known as 'beaming.' From the mill to the beam, the 696 ends are progressively unwound.

To keep the ends from tangling, a lot of strain is required; the twisted nature of the Harris Tweed wool makes this a difficult task! The ends are then connected, one by one, to the current warp already on the loom, ensuring that the pattern is carried over from the old to the new warp. If a pattern change is required, like from herringbone to twill, a lot of heddle rethreading is required.